Kimono Fashion Show - Kyoto Nishijin Textile 2
November 16, 2008
Apresentacao de kimonos feito a mao no Kyoto Nishijin Textile Center, em Kyoto.
Kimono em japonês significa literalmente “coisa de vestir”. Fora do Japão essa expressão designa genericamente uma variada gama de peças e que no conjunto formam um visual considerado tÃpico ou tradicional japonês, mas também é sinônimo da peça principal. No Japão, a peça principal que nós chamamos de kimono é chamada de kosode.
O atual significado da palavra de kimono tem origem no século XVI, quando navegantes ocidentais - principalmente portugueses, espanhóis e holandeses - chegaram ao arquipélago. Nos primeiros contatos com os japoneses, sem conhecerem os idiomas de uns e de outros, os ocidentais perguntavam com mÃmicas e gestos qual era o nome das roupas de seda que viam os japoneses usarem, e os japoneses respondiam kimono. Era como alguém perguntando a um japonês: “Como se chama sua roupa?” E o japonês respondia: “Roupa”. Foi assim que a palavra kimono tornou-se designação moderna do vestuário tradicional japonês.
No Japão o vestuário divide-se em duas grandes categorias: wafuku (vestimenta japonesa ou de estilo japonês) e yofuku (vestimenta ocidental ou de estilo ocidental)
Visita que fizemos (Johrei Center).
Kimono are made from a single bolt of fabric called a tan. Bolts come in standard dimensions of about 14 inches width and 12½ yards length (enough for one adult kimono)[4], and the entire fabric is used to make the kimono. The finished kimono consists of four main strips of fabric—two panels covering the body and two panels forming the sleeves—with additional smaller strips forming the narrow front panel and collar[4]. In the past, the kimono was often taken apart for washing as separate panels, and re-sewn by hand. Because the entire bolt remains in the finished garment without cutting, the kimono can be retailored easily to fit a different person.[4]
The maximum length of the sleeve is dictated by the width of the fabric. The distance from the center of the spine to the end of the sleeve could not exceed twice the width of the fabric. Traditional kimono fabric was typically no more than 36 centimeters (14 inches) wide. Thus the distance from spine to wrist could not exceed a maximum of roughly 68 centimeters (27 inches). Modern kimono fabric is woven as wide as 42 centimeters (17 inches) to accommodate modern Japanese body sizes. Very tall or heavy people, such as sumo wrestlers, must have kimono custom-made by joining multiple bolts of fabric together or custom-woven. source
Traditional kimono are sewn by hand, and their fabrics are also frequently hand made and hand decorated. Various techniques such as yūzen dye resist are used for applying decoration and patterns to the base cloth. Repeating patterns that cover a large area of a kimono are traditionally done with the yūzen resist technique and a stencil. Over time there have been many variations in color, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi.
Kimono and obi are traditionally made of silk, silk brocade, silk crepes (such as chirimen) and satin weaves (such as rinzu). Modern kimono are also widely available in less-expensive easy-care fabrics such as rayon, cotton sateen, cotton, polyester and other synthetic fibers. Silk is still considered the ideal fabric, however, and is a must for formal occasions.
Modern styles of Kimono
Modern styles of Kimono
A young girl wearing a kimono.
A young girl wearing a kimono.
Customarily, woven patterns and dyed repeat patterns are considered informal; Formal kimono have free-style designs dyed over the whole surface or along the hem[4]. During the Heian period, kimono were worn with up to a dozen or more colorful contrasting layers, with each combination of colors being a named pattern[4]. Today, the kimono is normally worn with a single layer on top of a slip style undergarment. The pattern of the kimono can also determine in what season it should be worn. For example, a pattern with butterflies or cherry blossoms would be worn in spring. Watery designs are common during the summer. A popular autumn motif is the russet leaf of the Japanese maple; for winter, designs may include bamboo, pine trees and plum blossoms.
Old kimono are often recycled in various ways: altered to make haori, hiyoku, or kimono for children, used to patch similar kimono, used for making handbags and similar kimono accessories, and used to make covers, bags or cases for various implements, especially for sweet-picks used in tea ceremonies. Kimono with damage below the waistline can also be worn under hakama to hide the damage. Historically, skilled craftsmen laboriously picked the silk thread from old kimono and rewove it into a new textile in the width of a heko obi for mens kimono, using a recycling weaving method called saki-ori.
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